Bellevue: Daniel's Broiler

Please pardon the gap in time between posts - I'll spare you the details, but my new responsibilities at work are taking up the majority of my free time. Fortunately, there is still time to cook and eat, just not as much time to write. Continuing with the posts on great food in the Seattle/Bellevue area, I offer Daniel's Broiler in Bellevue.

Let me say that everything about this place was top-notch - service, food, atmosphere, entertainment, beverage selections...simply superb in every regard. We ate in the piano bar on a Wednesday night - got very lucky with a table next to the window. Since Daniel's in Bellevue is on the 21st floor of One Lincoln Tower, and overlooks the water and the skylines, this was a treat. We were also treated to live piano music - the expected Billy Joel and Elton John, but also the surprisingly pleasant "Into the Mystic" by Van Morrison. I'm not sure what the pianist/singer's name was, but he was great.

The liquor selection was one of the most impressive I've seen as well. The bourbon in particular was outstanding - I settled on a single Baker's, but Daniel's even had the very rare, including Pappy Van Winkle. Fellow whiskey drinkers, if you EVER come across this, treat yourself, and write to me about it. They also had Richard Hennessy cognac. As I am not a cognac drinker, its hard for me to see paying $185 for a 1.5 ounce pour of anything, but its on the menu for those of you who might be interested. I was definitely not.

Daniel's also has a raw bar, and was featuring Merata and Pebble Beach oysters, both West Coast. Again, both truly amazing. There wasn't a terribly noticeable difference between the two; both were the correct texture and just a bit briny, a nice departure from the Chesapeake / Carolina oysters I'm used to. We were told, however, that the oysters on that particular night were larger than usual, which I did not mind at all. Just a bit of horseradish and a generous amount of Tabasco (actual Tabasco, not some other stuff) made them perfect.

And then there was the 21 Burger. So far the one of the best. Period. The beef is freshly ground USDA Prime, and although I did not get a chance to ask, it seemed to be mostly chuck with a bit of rib meat. I ordered mine medium, and it was cooked appropriately; served with bacon, a thick layer of cheddar cheese, pickles, lettuce, tomato, and onion on a grilled sesame bun, with "special sauce" on the side. Beef-to-bun ratio was perfect, and although I'm typically a mustard guy, the Russian dressing-esque condiment was a nice change and quite tasty.

If you're ever in the Seattle area, check out Daniel's Broiler. They've got 3 locations in the area.

Seattle - Tamarind Tree Restaurant

Although this blog is primarily focused on food in North Carolina, I am in the Seattle/Bellevue area this week, and cannot resist writing about some of the amazing food out here. My friend Eric



took me into the city last night, and amidst a great tour of the city, including Capitol Hill and Queen Anne, we ate at the Tamarind Tree Restaurant in Little Saigon. It was nothing shy of amazing.

Although I did not get the Seven Courses of Beef, the shitake satay and Tamarind Tree Noodles were unbelievable. It's rice vermicelli with cucumber, carrot, daikon, cilantro, skewered grilled pork and chicken, deep fried egg rolls, grilled shrimp on sugarcane, and grilled prawns served with mixed herb fish sauce. All I could say is "wow". And believe me, the bowl is sufficient - upgrading to the platter would likely require new notches in one's belt.

If you ever find yourself in this area, hit the Tamarind Tree. Food, service, atmosphere all top-notch.

Quick Bites: Smokin' Granny Chicken Salad

So Tim gave me some applewood a couple weeks ago, and I've had the chance to break away from my fixation with hickory as a smoking wood. Much like Tim, I really enjoy smoked chicken; I often find, however, that I quickly devour the dark meat and end up looking for something to do with the white. My Smokin' Granny chicken salad is it.

You will need:

• The white meat from a 3 to 4 lb. smoked chicken (I highly recommend applewood; see September's post on smoking chickens)
• a granny smith apple
• 2 heaping spoonfuls of mayonnaise (Duke's all the way)
• 2 heaping spoonfuls of sweet relish (Mt. Olive)
• 1 heaping spoonful of dill relish (again, Mt. Olive)
• 1/4 cup of hot banana pepper rings (Oliverio's if you can find them)
• 1 tbsp dried dill, or 2 tbsp fresh leaves
• salt and black pepper to taste

Dice the chicken and apple into bite sized pieces. Dice the banana peppers too. Mix everything in a large bowl, chill for at least 1 hour, and serve. I recommend either sourdough toast or baked pita points (got the idea from Saladelia).

Check back soon for lamb chops and marinated cipollinis.

Ron's Pork Loin

Ron is one of the butchers at the Kroger in Wakefield (North Raleigh), and is by all standards, a great guy and excellent chef. I had the chance to talk with Ron a few weeks ago while shopping for my wife's birthday dinner. I asked him for a Boston Butt (to grind into sausage); they were out, but it led to a discussion about pork and this fabulous recipe.

I served it to my in-laws and it received rave reviews. In fact, it will be one of the main dishes at this year's Thanksgiving - the flavor is amazing, and its much easier than a Turducken (sorry Terry, maybe next year). What I like about this dish is that you get world-class cuisine, but with a beginner's level of effort.

To make Ron's Apple-Rosemary Stuffed Pork Loin with Warm Cherry Preserves, you will need:

• 1 half boneless pork loin, 3 to 4 lbs.
• 1 box of Stove Top Stuffing for Pork
• approximately 2 cups applesauce (I used Whitehouse)
• 1-2 tsp dried rosemary (3-4 if using fresh)
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter
• 24 oz. cherry preserves
• coarse cracked black pepper corns to coat the roast
• kosher or sea salt
• butcher's twine
• aluminum foil
  

Start by butterflying the pork. If you're new to the process, or uncomfortable with it, most butchers will do this for you, just ask when you're at the store. Cut along the length of the meat, dividing it into 2 halves of equal thickness. Cut until there is about 1 inch of meat left and you can open the 2 halves like a book.



Cover a large cutting board or butcher's block with plastic wrap, place the pork cut side up, cover with additional plastic wrap, and use a meat mallet, rolling pin, or flat side of a heavy cleaver to pound it flat. The goal is to end up with a large, flat piece of loin, which will later be rolled and tied. Once butterflied and flattened, place in the refrigerator while the stuffing is prepared.

Start by melting the 4 tbsp of butter over medium heat. Add the rosemary and sautee about 2 minutes to release the flavor. Add around 1 1/2 cups of the applesauce, thin with a little water if needed, and heat to boiling. Add the stuffing mix, and remove from the heat. If the mix is too thick, thin it with more applesauce or water. Let the stuffing cool completely before moving on.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Remove the pork from the plastic wrap and lay flat on the board, cut side up. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper, just a bit for seasoning. Spread the stuffing in an even layer across the meat:



At this point, have 3-4 lengths of butcher's twine handy, and roll the meat like a jelly roll. Don't attempt to roll too tightly, or the stuffing will squeeze out (some will fall out during cooking, but a nice amount will remain within). Use the twine to tie the roll and hold its shape:



Now you'll roll the roast in the cracked black pepper. I've found the easiest way to crack the pepper is to put peppercorns inside 2 zipper-seal sandwich bags and give it a few whacks with a meat mallet. Try to get an even, but not total, coating of peppercorns all over the roast:



Sprinkle the top with salt. Wrap in aluminum foil, place on a cookie sheet or in a large baking dish, and roast for 45-60 minutes at 375, until the internal temperature nears 160 degrees. At this point, open the foil pouch so that the top and sides of the roast can brown, and roast an additional 15 minutes. You'll want to remove from the oven when the internal temperature is around 155-160 degrees - any more and the meat will become tough.



During this time, heat the cherry preserves in a saucepan over medium heat. Let the meat rest 10 minutes before carving, and serve 1/2 - 1 inch slices with warmed preserves as a sauce.

I served this with roast potatoes and a simple green salad, as well as this mixed-nut encrusted mahi-mahi for the wife, also with warmed cherry preserves. Simply crush a mix of cashews, almonds, hazelnuts, and pecans, season the fish filet with salt and pepper, press both sides into the crushed nuts, and sautee in butter over medium heat for 4-5 minutes per side, depending on thickness.

Quick Bites: The Right Way to Make a Burger

I must admit that burgers have occupied a lot of my thoughts lately, due in no small part to the folks at A Hamburger Today. This blog focuses on nothing but burgers, and does an excellent job with an American classic.

I agree with many of the recurring themes of this site, specifically:

• Burgers need to be made from freshly ground meat. Nothing that's been frozen or pre-ground in a slaughterhouse or packing plant. I've got a grinder attachment for my KitchenAid that does the job.

• Burgers should be made from a blend of different cuts: sirloin, chuck, brisket, cheek, etc. This allows for the best flavor and proper mix of meat and fat.

• Burgers should be served on a plain white bun, steamed or lightly toasted. The griddle I have has ridges on one side so I can toast buns while I griddle the meat. This leads into the next point...

• Burgers should be griddled. You don't get the carmelized crust from the Maillard reaction any other way.

• Burgers should to the classic set of toppings: lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mustard, mayo, ketchup, cheese, and sometimes bacon. No truffle-infused prosciutto shavings or micro-arugula and endive salad on the bun.

Last night, I picked up 1 pound of boneless short ribs and 2 pounds of boneless chuck strips. So far, this is my personal favorite burger mix and will be a keeper.

Cipollini Onion and Four Mushroom Risotto

Risotto is a traditional Italian dish that's picked up some popularity in recent years. Many restaurants feature a risotto, with ingredients changing on a somewhat frequent basis. Nana's of Durham features risotto as an appetizer, and its worth checking out. Last time I went the one of the key ingredients was fried leeks, which was new and interesting. At the time of this writing, they are offering a risotto with NC White Shrimp, Roasted Fennel and Local Yellow Peppers finished with Smoked Bacon. However, the chef does need to let the rice cook a little longer, to let the starchy, almost pudding-like consistency of the Arborio fully develop.

Be sure you get Arborio rice, this is key to a good risotto. Arborio is a short-grained rice, primarily grown in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions of Italy. Other types of Italian short-grained rice such as Carnaroli and Vialone Nano can also be used, but you will not get the desired effect with other types of white rice. In more traditional white rice, and longer grain rices such as Jasmine, the starch content is not high enough for the risotto "magic" to happen.

You can also substitute other onions for the Cipollini, but you will find they are not nearly as sweet and delicate. The mushroom blend is a mix of basic white mushrooms, as well as crimini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms. The grocer near me sells these three in a tray-pack blend; its worth seeking them out individually if you don't have this option. The mixture of mushrooms adds a very earthy undertone to the dish, and having all 4 types is key.

You will also need olive oil, garlic, vegetable or meat stock (at least 6 cups), salt, black and crushed red peppers, and optionally, a pinch of saffron. Risotto is also best served with heaping bowls of freshly grated parmesan cheese.



Start by roughly chopping the onions and garlic while heating the olive oil (about 3/4 of an inch) to medium in a dutch oven or large soup pot. Sautee over medium heat until the onions become soft and translucent - you do not want the onions or garlic to brown so reduce the heat as needed:



Once the onions are close to being completely translucent, add the sliced mushrooms and sautee for an additional 2 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of arborio rice (and a little more olive oil if the mushrooms have absorbed all of it) and sautee 1 minute more, while stirring:



At this point, you will begin adding the stock, and the technique for completing this dish is very important. Add just enough stock so that the grains of rice float freely in the liquid:



Allow this to come to a slow boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Also add the peppers, saffron, and salt to taste. If you're using a commercially prepared stock, go easy on the additional salt, and remember you'll get additional salt at serving time from the parmesan.

Pay close attention as the liquid begins to be absorbed by the rice - once the initial liquid is almost completely absorbed, add another 1/2 to 1 cup of stock and repeat this process, adding more liquid as needed and stirring somewhat frequently. Some people call for heating the stock prior to adding it, but I've used broth right out of the can and had equally good results.

This requires a lot of hands-on work, and will take 20-30 minutes to do correctly. However, you will notice that as you near completion, the rice will become very soft and the dish will take on a very thick, creamy texture. At this point, begin tasting small amounts of the rice and cook to your desired doneness. Some schools of thought say that risotto, like pasta, should be served al dente. I prefer mine to be a little more done - the creamier the better, especially as the weather gets cold here in Central NC. The final product is pictured here alongside some smoked beef brisket and chicken.

Quick Bites: Camembert, Bacon, and Mixed Greens

This is by no means an in-depth post, but next time you're after something quick yet tasty, this sandwich is sure to please. It began in a simpler form when I was in college, consisting of Brie, a toasted English muffin, and some green leaf lettuce. Over the years, the sandwich has evolved a bit, but remains a simple, quick fix.

I still enjoy Brie, but these days, I prefer Camembert. It falls into the category of semi-soft French cheeses and is very similar to Brie, but with a slightly different flavor. True Camembert-Normandie is made from unpasteurized milk, but the pasteurized varieties which are more widely available are quite excellent - however, they do not qualify for the "AOC" label which designates true Camembert

Start with two slices of fresh Sourdough bread, very lightly toasted. I get it to the point where the bread is a little crispy, but not quite browned. Add 3-4 thick slices of Camembert, 4 strips of bacon, and some mixed greens. That's it. The musky undertones of the creamy cheese are nicely accented by the bacon, and the crisp, slightly bitter greens add the needed contrast.

Look for more soon, including grilled lamb chops and Chez Matt's infamous risotto.