Smoking Goat Farm

So as usual it has been ages since I have posted here. However, Kate and I have been putting most of our efforts into getting our produce operation going, and we'd like everyone to track our progress here:

Smoking Goat Farm

Thanks!

OnlyBurger: Interview with Brian Bottger

On Friday, I had the unique pleasure of sitting down for an hour with Brian Bottger, Owner/Operations Director of OnlyBurger. We talked about Brian's history in restaurants (and construction), food politics, Schlosser and Pollan, the challenges of running a food truck, and of course, burgers. There's a wonderful story about a late night mobile food turf war on a popular Durham street, but I digress...

The OnlyBurger truck offers traditional, West-Coast style griddled burgers. Lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mustard, and ketchup are included; and in words I don't dare paraphrase:

"We’ll give you mayo if you want it. Buns are butter toasted to make them all crispy-like and tasty."

The truck runs 7 days a week in and around Durham, and frequents places like Sam's Quik Stop, various spots on the Duke campus, and the Saturday morning farmer's market on Foster St. Locations for the day are posted each morning on Twitter. As of late, Brian's even made the occasional appearance in Raleigh, including a stop at the Big Boss Brewery. OnlyBurger accepts cash and DukePoints on campus, and credit cards in other locations. You can call in orders, but if there's a line, you'll be on hold for a while, so its best to call early or just show up. The truck does lunch, dinner, and the occasional late-night on campus, and in a typical lunch run, will use 20 to 30 lbs. of fresh ground beef.

The beef is Montana Ranch Brand, the folks who also provide beef for Earth Fare. The Piedmontese cattle are raised by a co-op of ranchers who use a mix of grass and grain for feed, all vegetarian, with no antibiotics or hormones. Brian grinds fresh every morning and uses 100% chuck. He's aware that other chefs use blends, but much like myself, he prefers the simplicity. And with the beef being Piedmontese and partially grass-fed, its somewhat leaner than the typical burger, which explains the longer cook time and the slightly longer wait at the truck. But as many of us in the area know, its well worth the wait. The buns are produced by a local supplier, Mary Jane; its a traditional soft, white bun, but it holds up well to the toasting and the burger. Its soft enough to stay in the background, but it holds up a double without any signs of stress.

Brian is originally from California, and like many from the West Coast, is a die-hard In-and-Out guy. While sharing his love of In-and-Out, Brian also shared his history in restaurants - dating back to when Alice Waters started shaking things up in the fine dining world, and through places such as Butterflies and Enoteca Vin in Raleigh, Il Palio in Chapel Hill, and Nana's and Pop's in Durham. He even did a brief stint in construction, which ultimately led him to the realization that there wasn't one place where you could always get a great burger in this area. Sure we have Char-Grill, Cook Out, and Wimpy's, but these honestly don't come close to what OB serves up. And its that good every time.

Brian makes the patties a little larger than In-and-Out, somwhere between 4 and 5 ounces. The extra thickness helps hold in some of the moisture since the fat content is somewhat lower. It means each patty spends 7-8 minutes cooking, but comes out juicy and flavorful with the crust only a griddle can provide. OB offers a choice of American, Cheddar, or Swiss, as well as bacon, and the menu includes turkey and veggie burgers as well (Gardenburger with an added touch for those who are curious).

The truck offers special burgers from time to time as well. When OB first began showing up in the late morning at the farmer's market, the farmers let him know that he was free to come much earlier. This inspired Brian to do something with a nod to breakfast. Since he was within arms' reach of farm-fresh eggs and in-season heirloom tomatoes, the fried egg and heirloom tomato burger was introduced and was an instant hit. As summer faded to fall, the heirlooms went out of season, but the fried green tomato and egg burger was the perfect replacement.

He's also recently featured a bacon and Bleu burger, with Danish Bleu cheese. This burger sometimes includes a red onion jam made with caramelized onions, Balsamic vinegar, apricot preserves, and some assistance from his wife. In March, to celebrate the one year anniversary of Wine Authorities, Brian came up with the Jackaroo to complement the Shiraz the wine store was featuring. This burger came with fried onions, barbecue sauce, and pepperjack cheese. But when I asked about his ideal burger, with little hesitation, the answer was a medium-rare burger, sauteed onions and mushrooms, extra sharp Cheddar, and spicy brown mustard. Brian - if you read this, I wouldn't mind seeing this as a Wednesday special...

Brian gets it when it comes to food. In his words, "It's the food that makes the food." His goal was to create a simple burger, made with the best ingredients, that's consistently good. Its evident in his the care he puts into selecting the beef. What impressed me even more was the equivalent level of attention to the fries. He starts with Idaho potatoes, and uses the Belgian soak-blanch-fry technique which results in some of the best fries I've ever had. And yes, they're the skinny kind. A normal order is a bit more than one person needs, but its worth the occasional indulgence. And its no where near the ridiculous overload one gets at Five Guys.

Every time I go back to the office with food from the truck, people are invariably drawn to the aroma. It's really that good. I've even got a standard speech to cover what, when, and where. In talking to Brian, its evident that he takes the utmost care to provide a top quality product. He's an intelligent, articulate guy with an interesting and diverse past, and a great future ahead. Along with his partner Tom Ferguson, he's set to open a brick and mortar location on Shannon Rd. later this year, and with the reputation he's built, its sure to be an instant success. There's even a rumor about a new veggie burger.

Grass-Fed Beef?

Last week, A Hamburger Today had an article on which type of beef makes the best burgers: grain- or grass-fed. They referenced a Discovery News article that had some great info, including the finding that grass-fed beef actually has a larger carbon footprint. Carbon emissions on a typical grain-based feedlot are higher per kilogram, but since the animals gain weight more rapidly, the overall methane output is less. An Australian study found that on average, grain-fed cattle produce 38% less methane than their grass-fed counterparts. However, some researchers find that in grass-fed pastured, the grazed land can act as a carbon sink, offsetting the higher methane production. Eating the grass and subsequently fertilizing the pasture with waste creates healthy soil which can trap carbon.

Additionally, other environmental factors make grass-fed beef a compelling choice. There is abundant evidence that commercial feedlots have significant negative effects on air and water quality. The practice of maintaining waste lagoons is a huge contributor. In the most extreme cases, these lagoons can rupture, causing fish kills and massive groundwater contamination.

The NRDC has a great article on the effects of commercial feedlots on the surrounding environment and human health. As manure decomposes, gases including ammonia and hydrogen sulfide are released. This gas is dangerous at low levels and symptoms can range from diarrhea to death. Additionally, nitrates from waste lagoons can seep and contaminate ground water. Lastly, use of antibiotics is prevalent in commercial feed operations, due to the volume and close proximity in which these animals are kept. These antibiotics also make it into waste, groundwater, and our food supply, which only exacerbates the problem of drug-resistant bacterial diseases.

The distinction between these 2 types of beef is something I've been paying especially close attention to lately, with the arrival of Turtle Mist 100% grass-fed beef from Gelbveih cattle. The last post was about the pot roast I made; the arrival of the snow this past weekend gave me a great opportunity to further experiment. I defrosted a 1.5 pound chuck steak, ground it using the coarse die on the KitchenAid, and separated into 2 batches - a 6 ounce burger and the remainder for chili.

The Burger
This was one of the best burgers I've ever had. My initial concern was that the chuck by itself wouldn't have enough fat to keep the burger moist, but this turned out not to be an issue. I formed the patty, seasoned the outside with salt and pepper, and seared on a flat-top griddle over high heat for 3 minutes on each side. The result was a perfect medium-rare burger.

It wasn't as juicy as a grain-fed chuck patty, but it was plenty moist, with enough juices to soak part of the bun, and the grass-fed flavor was amazing. There was an obvious dense quality to the meat as compared to typical grain-fed chuck, but I enjoyed the texture immensely. I would not recommend cooking past medium or the patty would likely be tough and somewhat dry.

The Chili
The idea to make chili was largely inspired by a discussion with my officemate last week. We were talking about making Cincinnati chili, and he'd found an article sharing the technique of boiling the ground beef (as opposed to browning) before adding to the chili. This takes the excess fat off and gives the meat a great texture.

I decided to use this method, slightly modified. I took the remaining ground chuck (raw) and added it to the Crock Pot. Then a can of pintos and a can of diced tomatoes, salt, pepper, cumin, cinnamon, 3 cloves of garlic, and some dried local chiles drom this summer. 8 hours on low and it was amazing.

Since the grass-fed beef is so lean, there was no need to drain the excess fat from the meat before simmering. And the gamier flavor is ideal for chili.

Which is better?
Based on my recent experiments, I'll be sticking with grass-fed beef for the foreseeable future. It's a little pricier than grain-fed, but I'm finding that I eat smaller portions since its a denser, leaner protein. I still need to experiment with other cuts; I've got some tenderloin and a hangar steak that I'm looking forward to preparing, but so far, the pot roast, chili, and burger all get high marks.

However, as important as taste and texture are, the environmental, ethical, and nutritional concerns must be considered. Although I'm more carnivore than not, I believe that animals should be treated humanely. I like to know the meat I'm eating enjoyed a decent existence grazing in pastures and not being pumped full of chemicals in a pen. Additionally, anything I can do to stem the tide of commercial feedlots is a worthy effort in my book. These factors coupled with grass-fed beef being leaner and high in omega-3's tells me this is the right choice.

Turtle Mist Beef!

They say absence makes the heart grow fonder; hopefully, this means there are folks out there who LOVE the sporadic entries on this blog...

My favorite farm, Turtle Mist, is now offering 100% grass-fed, pastured beef. And its wonderful. Gene and Barry came for dinner last night and we had a fantastic chuck steak and some local purple-hulled peas with jowl bacon. All finished with Pappy Van Winkle's 15 Year Family Reserve. If you're a whiskey drinker, look that one up.

Like all grass fed beef, this is leaner and more flavorful than commercial, corn-fed meat, but I prefer it for a multitude of reasons. The biggest one being that you know you're getting beef and not an extra dose of hormones. Anyway, here's the recipe:

Turtle Mist Pot Roast with Dumplings

2 lb. chuck steak
2 cloves garlic
1/2 sweet onion
2 stalks celery
4 carrots
1 pkg mushrooms - I used baby portabella
1 1/2 cups red wine
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
flat-leaf parsley
2 cups flour
ice water


1. chop the onion, celery, and carrot into large pieces; place into the bottom of a Crock Pot.
2. Place the meat on top of the veggies in the crock. Salt and pepper the meat.
3. Place the mushrooms and a generous handful of parsley on top of the meat.
4. Add half of the wine and half of the chicken broth to the crock.
5. Cook on low for 4 hours.
6. At 3.5 hours into the cooking, make the dumplings
7. Add 1 tsp salt to 2 cups flour and mix
8. Slowly add ice water into the flour and stir with a fork - you will use about 3/4 cup
9. Once the dough is formed and no longer sticky, turn onto a floured surface and roll to 1/2 inch thick
10. Pinch off bite size pieces of dough to form the dumplings.
11. Add the remaining wine and chicken broth to the crock.
12. Add the dumplings to the crock.
13. Simmer for 4 more hours on low.

Optional: Remove the meat, dumplings, mushrooms, and some carrots from the crock. Use an immersion blender to blend the remaining cooked veggies and liquid together to make an amazing gravy.

Quick Bites: Turtle Mist Neck Roast

So I do realize that something which takes 3 hours to slow cook isn't exactly quick, but if you consider that this takes 15 minutes of prep, at which point you can walk away for 3 hours, its pretty easy. I spent the morning at Turtle Mist yesterday, and Bob asked me for some advice on what to do with a neck roast. This is what I came up with; everything is local.

• 1 lb. lamb neck roast
• 1 tbsp. bacon grease
• 1 large long hot or mild pepper, chopped
• 1 medium purple carrot, sliced - do not peel!
• 1 medium tomato, diced
• 3-4 fresh sage leaves, julienned
• 1 cloved garlic, minced
• 4 cups of lamb stock (chicken or vegetable are OK too)

1. Cover all sides of the meat with salt and pepper. Heat up the bacon fat to medium in a medium-sized pot.

2. Brown the roast on all sides. During the last few minutes of browning, add the garlic, peppers, and carrots, and stir.

3. Add enough stock to cover the roast halfway. Stir in the tomato and sage.



4. Bring to a boil. Cover, reduce to low heat, and braise for 3 hours. Your meat will be falling-ff-the-bone tender.

Becoming Locavores, Part 2: Late Summer Farmers' Market Dinner

Another Saturday, another successful trip to the Creedmoor and Wake Forest farmers' markets. This week's haul included purple carrots, Malabar spinach, goat's milk Roquefort, goat cheese w/ fresh herbs, spelt flatbread, tomatoes, hot peppers, eggplant, Mississippi Red peas, Yukon Gold and red potatoes, and organic, pasture-raised pork loin chops.

The spinach and carrots came from Turtle Mist, and as always, it was good to see Bob and Ginger. I'll be going over to their farm tomorrow to trim hooves and tag ears. Should be a wonderful learning experience.

I also learned a lot more about Pine Knot Farms. We've been getting vegetables and fruits from Mark for a few months, but I just recently learned that this farm is certified organic and also does pasture raised pork. I picked up some loin chops this morning:



and they turned out wonderfully:



Kate used the eggplant to make baba ghanouj:



and I took the carrots, hot peppers, goat's milk Roquefort, and spinach:



and sauteed them all together in a little olive oil:



for this wonderful meal:



And as you can see above, Mike T. Bunny loves the purple carrots too. Check back soon for a post on making bacon, start to finish. If you can get a whole pork belly, its not as tough as you might think. I continue to be amazed at what I can find within 20 miles of home.

Becoming Locavores, Part 1

In recent months, we've spent a lot of time exploring local farms and farmers' markets in Granville, Franklin, and Wake counties, and also learned about pickling / preserving / freezing / etc. As we meet more farmers and find more local variety, we're quickly moving away from grocery stores and buying local whenever possible. Meats, produce, eggs, and cheeses are all easily obtained in the Triangle area. I've personally met the growers / farmers and in addition to having great food, they are great people.

This weekend's haul included:

• figs
• Malabar spinach
• goat's milk feta
• goat's milk 5 pepper cheese spread
  
• lamb spareribs
• lamb leg chops
• purple-hulled peas
• Crowder peas
• butterbeans
• okra
• white eggplant
• Yukon Gold and red potatoes
  
• eggs

But this is only a sampling of what NC's farms have to offer. We've built a pretty solid network of farmers that we like; here's a rundown:

Lyon Farms Hwy 15 and Munns Rd, Creedmoor, NC

• strawberries, blueberries, and blackberries in season; can pick yourself
• They do sell other produce but much of it is shipped in and not local, we stick to the berries.
  

MAE Farm Mitchell Church Rd, Louisburg, NC / NC State Farmer's Market
http://www.maefarmmeats.com/
Mike and Susanne Jones

• pork - all cuts, including bacon, ham, and many types of sausage
  
• beef - all cuts
  
• goat - all cuts
• all meat is pasture-raised
  
• eggs
  

Turtle Mist Farm 227 Suitt Rd., Franklinton, NC / Creedmoor and Wake Forest farmers' markets. Creedmoor Wednesdays; Wake Forest Saturdays.
http://turtlemistfarm.com/
Bob and Ginger Sykes

• lamb - all cuts, many not found in stores such as spare ribs and neck roasts. Pasture-raised.
  
• eggs
• various veggies
• aloe plants
• jewelry
  

Mark / Pine Knob Farm Creedmoor Farmers' Market

• Butterbeans
• Crowder peas
• Melons
  
• Okra
• Pork
  
• Squash
• Eggplant
• various other veggies and fruits depending on season
  

Deborah's Fresh Vegetables Creedmoor Farmers' Market

• potatoes
• sweet potatoes
• cucumbers
• banana and hot peppers
• butter beans
• purple-hulled peas
• corn
  
• tomatoes
  
• squash
• melons
• various other veggies and fruits depending on season

Sleepy Goat Farms Pelham, NC / Wake Forest Farmers' Market

• goat cheeses, such as feta
• goat cheese spreads - garlic/paprika, 5 pepper, curry, etc.
  

Creedmoor Farmers' Market Hwy 50 and Hwy 56, Creedmoor, NC
http://www.creedmoorfarmersmarket.com/

• Wed. 1-6 PM, Sat. 8 AM - 1PM
• April - November
  

Wake Forest Farmers' Market White Ave. and Wait Ave., Wake Forest, NC
http://www.wakeforestfarmersmarket.org/

• 8AM - 12PM in season
• Holiday markets
• Winter markets
  

The Creedmoor Farmer's Market and Local Lamb

Last Saturday, Kate and I made quite the haul at the Creedmoor Farmer's Market. It's not nearly as large as something like the state market in Raleigh, but there are a variety of vendors and some amazing finds.




This trip brought eggs, basil, banana peppers, cucumbers, white and Italian eggplant, Silver Queen and Peaches & Cream sweet corn, zucchini, cantaloupe, shelled butterbeans, and Cherokee Purple heirloom tomatoes.



The majority of this food made an amazing dinner Saturday night, but the cucumbers and banana peppers were pickled in a matter of hours:



Earlier in the week, we got some local lamb from Turtle Mist Farm in Franklinton - shanks to be specific. Priced at $6/lb., grass-fed, pasture raised, USDA inspected, and processed in a local Halal facility, this is some of the best lamb I have ever eaten. I braised the shanks with celery, onion, tomato, and garlic in lamb stock, for about 2.5 hours, and it was fantastic. I just bought more from Bob yesterday.

We've also discovered MAE Farm in Louisburg, and I just talked with Susanne for the first time today. Their pork, beef, and goat is raised with the highest ethical and humane standards, and the farm holds a Certificate of Compliance from the Animal Welfare Association. I'll be going up Sunday to get pork tenderloins, butts, and a belly; beef chuck, skirt, and ribeye steaks; goat chops; eggs; and jalapeno-onion and Andouille sausage. I expect it will be nothing shy of amazing.

Well folks, it looks like Kate and I are going local. Stay tuned for a post on the Farmer's Market Dinner...

Pickling Day!

Well summer is in full swing here in eastern North Carolina, which means the local farms have all sorts of wonderful stuff. Kate and I hit the Creedmoor Farmer's Market last week, and got cayenne, jalapeno, banana, and large hot peppers, zucchini and spaghetti squash, cantaloupe, okra, and string beans.



We had decided earlier in the week to have a pickling extravaganza at my mother-in-law's, and when we got there, she also had yellow squash, more cayennes, and "mini" tomatoes - that is, the resultant fruit of grape and Better Boy tomatoes cross-pollinating.

We used 2 recipes for pickling liquids, a "hot" based on white vinegar and salt, and a "sweet, made with cider vinegar, tons of sugar, and mustard and celery seeds. By the time it was all said and done, we had dill pickles, squash pickles, sweet pickled cayennes, sweet pickled mini tomatoes, sweet pickled okra, and sweet pickled string beans. Not bad for a weekend's work. Thanks to Gene and Barry for the lesson!



"Hot" pickle recipe

1. Add chopped onion and some garlic cloves, 2 per quart
2. Pack the produce tightly into the jars.
3. Bring 5 cups water, 5 cups white vinegar, and ¾ cup salt to a boil
4. Once boiling, ladle into your jars and immediately put the lids on as tight as you can
5. Give them 3-4 hours to cool and seal
6. Allow to sit for 2 weeks before eating.


"Sweet" pickle recipe

Note: this is adapted from an old cookbook and the proportions of liquid to produce were way off. I've included the recipe for the liquid; make as much as you see fit for the amount of produce being pickled. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF SUGAR!

1. Combine the produce and some sliced onion. Salt lightly and allow to sit for an hour.
2. Combine 1 cup cider vinegar, 1 3/4 cups of sugar, 1/2 tsp of celery seed, and 1/2 tsp of mustard seed; bring to a boil.
3. Add produce; return to a boil.
4. Immediately add to jars, cover with vinegar mixture and seal.
5. Allow to sit for 2 weeks before eating.

Quick Bites: Pork Tacos with Cilantro and Cotija

A few days ago, I happened across some center cut, boneless pork chops that were too good to pass up. About 1.5 inches think and 8 ounces each, they were beautiful. I marinated them for around 6 hours in a mix of lime juice, minced garlic, 1/2 bunch of cilantro, crushed with mortar and pestle, and a mix of jalapeño, serrano, and habañero chiles, also crushed. I grilled these on the Weber over charwood, searing hot heat for about 5 minutes on a side. The chops came out seared, juicy, and still a little pink in the middle. Here's what I did with the leftovers:



You will need:

• 1 lb. marinated and wood-grilled pork, cooked
• 4 taco-sized flour tortillas
• 2 tbsp. Búfalo Chipotle hot sauce (its actually quite mild)
  
• 1/2 cup grated Cotija cheese
• 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese (I like Cabot)
• fresh cilantro leaves
  

Dice the pork into bite size pieces and mix with the chipotle sauce. Reheat in a saucepan over medium-low heat or in 30 second intervals in the microwave. Spoon 1/4 of the pork into each tortilla. Top with cilantro leaves and cheeses.

Makes 4 tacos / serves 2

Kenutcky Grilled Oprah

So I realize it has been months since I posted and I apologize. But KFC's Kentucky Grilled Chicken has been all over the media lately, and between the commercials, the coupons, and the ensuing "scandal", I just couldn't stay away. For those not in the know, KFC recently launched a grilled chicken line, and Oprah arranged a promo so that anyone with a Windows or Mac machine can print a coupon for a free 2-piece meal:



Needless to say, the issues ranged from the coupon website being overloaded, to absurd comments in web forums, to certain restaurants not honoring the coupons, and ultimately reaching its apex with a racially charged KFC sit-in in NYC. (Thanks to SeriousEats for this info.)

Some of the quotes are scary:

"THANK YOU OPRAH, I WAS JUST NOW ABLE TO PRINT THE KFC COUPON! IT TOOK OVER 3 HRS.. THANKS AGAIN!! NEW JERSEY GIRL"

while others are downright hilarious:

"Requires Windows or Mac. So to get a free dinner I have to spend $300. Linux users are people too, but I guess we can afford dinner with the money we saved on our OS."

and others just seem to miss the point of the promo (and KFC) entirely:

"It would be nice if you had something for us veg folk who don't eat meat."

By this point, I was just as interested in the media spectacle as the food, and I seemed to be one of the "lucky ones" - I was able to print the coupon with relative ease, found a KFC with no lines, the coupon was honored without question, and I was in and out in under 3 minutes. There's only one problem - the chicken sucks.

I'm not really sure where to start, so I guess we can break it into 3 categories: appearance, aroma, and flavor.

Beginning with appearance, I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. Let's just say there is some distance between what's depicted in the ads and what you get. Not uncommon for fast food, but worth noting:

What they sell


What you get:



Just based on what I saw, I found several things that just weren't right. The pale color wasn't exactly appetizing. And while the chicken in the ads doesn't look quite like what comes off my grill, the presence of dark grill marks almost serves to say "Yes, it's really grilled!". All I can assume here is that they left my chicken on the "grill" long enough to cook it but not to fully impart the "grill" marks. I'm pretty sure this is just baked in a convection oven on a wire rack.

Next, the size. The thigh is smaller than the biscuit, and the leg is in similar proportion. I realize chickens vary in size, I just hope KFC isn't killing babies for Oprah's promo. These chicken pieces are really, really small.



And I'm pretty sure someone already took a bite out of this leg:



Moving on to the aroma of this meal, I wasn't prepared for what I got when I opened the lid. The smell was reminiscent of a hospital cafeteria, only boosting my suspicions that no grill is actually involved in the process of cooking this meat. I've spent a lot of my 28 years grilling on charcoal, propane, and electric, and never conjured a meal that smelled like this.

As I'm sure you can guess by now, I don't have anything good to say about the flavor. I spent some serious time convincing myself that I needed to actually taste the stuff in order to justify this post. So eventually I did. It just doesn't taste grilled. Or good. In fact, it doesn't have any taste at all. I chewed on the leg for a good 45 seconds trying discern the flavors, and there were none. It honestly didn't even taste like chicken, and it was tougher than dark meat should be.

I'd really like to know more about the "grilling" method KFC employs to make this new chicken - it could use some improvement. A basic brine, or marinade, or wave of the salt shaker would help enormously, as would higher temperatures during the cooking process. This chicken honestly looks and has the skin texture of chicken baked in a low-temperature oven.

Kudos to Oprah and KFC for this promo to try to reach the masses and give some folks a free meal, but it definitely leaves something to be desired. I remain a lifelong fan of Original Recipe, but if you're not already a KFC customer, the Kentucky Grilled Chicken isn't going to convert you.

Bellevue: Daniel's Broiler

Please pardon the gap in time between posts - I'll spare you the details, but my new responsibilities at work are taking up the majority of my free time. Fortunately, there is still time to cook and eat, just not as much time to write. Continuing with the posts on great food in the Seattle/Bellevue area, I offer Daniel's Broiler in Bellevue.

Let me say that everything about this place was top-notch - service, food, atmosphere, entertainment, beverage selections...simply superb in every regard. We ate in the piano bar on a Wednesday night - got very lucky with a table next to the window. Since Daniel's in Bellevue is on the 21st floor of One Lincoln Tower, and overlooks the water and the skylines, this was a treat. We were also treated to live piano music - the expected Billy Joel and Elton John, but also the surprisingly pleasant "Into the Mystic" by Van Morrison. I'm not sure what the pianist/singer's name was, but he was great.

The liquor selection was one of the most impressive I've seen as well. The bourbon in particular was outstanding - I settled on a single Baker's, but Daniel's even had the very rare, including Pappy Van Winkle. Fellow whiskey drinkers, if you EVER come across this, treat yourself, and write to me about it. They also had Richard Hennessy cognac. As I am not a cognac drinker, its hard for me to see paying $185 for a 1.5 ounce pour of anything, but its on the menu for those of you who might be interested. I was definitely not.

Daniel's also has a raw bar, and was featuring Merata and Pebble Beach oysters, both West Coast. Again, both truly amazing. There wasn't a terribly noticeable difference between the two; both were the correct texture and just a bit briny, a nice departure from the Chesapeake / Carolina oysters I'm used to. We were told, however, that the oysters on that particular night were larger than usual, which I did not mind at all. Just a bit of horseradish and a generous amount of Tabasco (actual Tabasco, not some other stuff) made them perfect.

And then there was the 21 Burger. So far the one of the best. Period. The beef is freshly ground USDA Prime, and although I did not get a chance to ask, it seemed to be mostly chuck with a bit of rib meat. I ordered mine medium, and it was cooked appropriately; served with bacon, a thick layer of cheddar cheese, pickles, lettuce, tomato, and onion on a grilled sesame bun, with "special sauce" on the side. Beef-to-bun ratio was perfect, and although I'm typically a mustard guy, the Russian dressing-esque condiment was a nice change and quite tasty.

If you're ever in the Seattle area, check out Daniel's Broiler. They've got 3 locations in the area.

Seattle - Tamarind Tree Restaurant

Although this blog is primarily focused on food in North Carolina, I am in the Seattle/Bellevue area this week, and cannot resist writing about some of the amazing food out here. My friend Eric



took me into the city last night, and amidst a great tour of the city, including Capitol Hill and Queen Anne, we ate at the Tamarind Tree Restaurant in Little Saigon. It was nothing shy of amazing.

Although I did not get the Seven Courses of Beef, the shitake satay and Tamarind Tree Noodles were unbelievable. It's rice vermicelli with cucumber, carrot, daikon, cilantro, skewered grilled pork and chicken, deep fried egg rolls, grilled shrimp on sugarcane, and grilled prawns served with mixed herb fish sauce. All I could say is "wow". And believe me, the bowl is sufficient - upgrading to the platter would likely require new notches in one's belt.

If you ever find yourself in this area, hit the Tamarind Tree. Food, service, atmosphere all top-notch.

Quick Bites: Smokin' Granny Chicken Salad

So Tim gave me some applewood a couple weeks ago, and I've had the chance to break away from my fixation with hickory as a smoking wood. Much like Tim, I really enjoy smoked chicken; I often find, however, that I quickly devour the dark meat and end up looking for something to do with the white. My Smokin' Granny chicken salad is it.

You will need:

• The white meat from a 3 to 4 lb. smoked chicken (I highly recommend applewood; see September's post on smoking chickens)
• a granny smith apple
• 2 heaping spoonfuls of mayonnaise (Duke's all the way)
• 2 heaping spoonfuls of sweet relish (Mt. Olive)
• 1 heaping spoonful of dill relish (again, Mt. Olive)
• 1/4 cup of hot banana pepper rings (Oliverio's if you can find them)
• 1 tbsp dried dill, or 2 tbsp fresh leaves
• salt and black pepper to taste

Dice the chicken and apple into bite sized pieces. Dice the banana peppers too. Mix everything in a large bowl, chill for at least 1 hour, and serve. I recommend either sourdough toast or baked pita points (got the idea from Saladelia).

Check back soon for lamb chops and marinated cipollinis.

Ron's Pork Loin

Ron is one of the butchers at the Kroger in Wakefield (North Raleigh), and is by all standards, a great guy and excellent chef. I had the chance to talk with Ron a few weeks ago while shopping for my wife's birthday dinner. I asked him for a Boston Butt (to grind into sausage); they were out, but it led to a discussion about pork and this fabulous recipe.

I served it to my in-laws and it received rave reviews. In fact, it will be one of the main dishes at this year's Thanksgiving - the flavor is amazing, and its much easier than a Turducken (sorry Terry, maybe next year). What I like about this dish is that you get world-class cuisine, but with a beginner's level of effort.

To make Ron's Apple-Rosemary Stuffed Pork Loin with Warm Cherry Preserves, you will need:

• 1 half boneless pork loin, 3 to 4 lbs.
• 1 box of Stove Top Stuffing for Pork
• approximately 2 cups applesauce (I used Whitehouse)
• 1-2 tsp dried rosemary (3-4 if using fresh)
• 4 tbsp unsalted butter
• 24 oz. cherry preserves
• coarse cracked black pepper corns to coat the roast
• kosher or sea salt
• butcher's twine
• aluminum foil
  

Start by butterflying the pork. If you're new to the process, or uncomfortable with it, most butchers will do this for you, just ask when you're at the store. Cut along the length of the meat, dividing it into 2 halves of equal thickness. Cut until there is about 1 inch of meat left and you can open the 2 halves like a book.



Cover a large cutting board or butcher's block with plastic wrap, place the pork cut side up, cover with additional plastic wrap, and use a meat mallet, rolling pin, or flat side of a heavy cleaver to pound it flat. The goal is to end up with a large, flat piece of loin, which will later be rolled and tied. Once butterflied and flattened, place in the refrigerator while the stuffing is prepared.

Start by melting the 4 tbsp of butter over medium heat. Add the rosemary and sautee about 2 minutes to release the flavor. Add around 1 1/2 cups of the applesauce, thin with a little water if needed, and heat to boiling. Add the stuffing mix, and remove from the heat. If the mix is too thick, thin it with more applesauce or water. Let the stuffing cool completely before moving on.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Remove the pork from the plastic wrap and lay flat on the board, cut side up. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper, just a bit for seasoning. Spread the stuffing in an even layer across the meat:



At this point, have 3-4 lengths of butcher's twine handy, and roll the meat like a jelly roll. Don't attempt to roll too tightly, or the stuffing will squeeze out (some will fall out during cooking, but a nice amount will remain within). Use the twine to tie the roll and hold its shape:



Now you'll roll the roast in the cracked black pepper. I've found the easiest way to crack the pepper is to put peppercorns inside 2 zipper-seal sandwich bags and give it a few whacks with a meat mallet. Try to get an even, but not total, coating of peppercorns all over the roast:



Sprinkle the top with salt. Wrap in aluminum foil, place on a cookie sheet or in a large baking dish, and roast for 45-60 minutes at 375, until the internal temperature nears 160 degrees. At this point, open the foil pouch so that the top and sides of the roast can brown, and roast an additional 15 minutes. You'll want to remove from the oven when the internal temperature is around 155-160 degrees - any more and the meat will become tough.



During this time, heat the cherry preserves in a saucepan over medium heat. Let the meat rest 10 minutes before carving, and serve 1/2 - 1 inch slices with warmed preserves as a sauce.

I served this with roast potatoes and a simple green salad, as well as this mixed-nut encrusted mahi-mahi for the wife, also with warmed cherry preserves. Simply crush a mix of cashews, almonds, hazelnuts, and pecans, season the fish filet with salt and pepper, press both sides into the crushed nuts, and sautee in butter over medium heat for 4-5 minutes per side, depending on thickness.

Quick Bites: The Right Way to Make a Burger

I must admit that burgers have occupied a lot of my thoughts lately, due in no small part to the folks at A Hamburger Today. This blog focuses on nothing but burgers, and does an excellent job with an American classic.

I agree with many of the recurring themes of this site, specifically:

• Burgers need to be made from freshly ground meat. Nothing that's been frozen or pre-ground in a slaughterhouse or packing plant. I've got a grinder attachment for my KitchenAid that does the job.

• Burgers should be made from a blend of different cuts: sirloin, chuck, brisket, cheek, etc. This allows for the best flavor and proper mix of meat and fat.

• Burgers should be served on a plain white bun, steamed or lightly toasted. The griddle I have has ridges on one side so I can toast buns while I griddle the meat. This leads into the next point...

• Burgers should be griddled. You don't get the carmelized crust from the Maillard reaction any other way.

• Burgers should to the classic set of toppings: lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mustard, mayo, ketchup, cheese, and sometimes bacon. No truffle-infused prosciutto shavings or micro-arugula and endive salad on the bun.

Last night, I picked up 1 pound of boneless short ribs and 2 pounds of boneless chuck strips. So far, this is my personal favorite burger mix and will be a keeper.

Cipollini Onion and Four Mushroom Risotto

Risotto is a traditional Italian dish that's picked up some popularity in recent years. Many restaurants feature a risotto, with ingredients changing on a somewhat frequent basis. Nana's of Durham features risotto as an appetizer, and its worth checking out. Last time I went the one of the key ingredients was fried leeks, which was new and interesting. At the time of this writing, they are offering a risotto with NC White Shrimp, Roasted Fennel and Local Yellow Peppers finished with Smoked Bacon. However, the chef does need to let the rice cook a little longer, to let the starchy, almost pudding-like consistency of the Arborio fully develop.

Be sure you get Arborio rice, this is key to a good risotto. Arborio is a short-grained rice, primarily grown in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions of Italy. Other types of Italian short-grained rice such as Carnaroli and Vialone Nano can also be used, but you will not get the desired effect with other types of white rice. In more traditional white rice, and longer grain rices such as Jasmine, the starch content is not high enough for the risotto "magic" to happen.

You can also substitute other onions for the Cipollini, but you will find they are not nearly as sweet and delicate. The mushroom blend is a mix of basic white mushrooms, as well as crimini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms. The grocer near me sells these three in a tray-pack blend; its worth seeking them out individually if you don't have this option. The mixture of mushrooms adds a very earthy undertone to the dish, and having all 4 types is key.

You will also need olive oil, garlic, vegetable or meat stock (at least 6 cups), salt, black and crushed red peppers, and optionally, a pinch of saffron. Risotto is also best served with heaping bowls of freshly grated parmesan cheese.



Start by roughly chopping the onions and garlic while heating the olive oil (about 3/4 of an inch) to medium in a dutch oven or large soup pot. Sautee over medium heat until the onions become soft and translucent - you do not want the onions or garlic to brown so reduce the heat as needed:



Once the onions are close to being completely translucent, add the sliced mushrooms and sautee for an additional 2 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of arborio rice (and a little more olive oil if the mushrooms have absorbed all of it) and sautee 1 minute more, while stirring:



At this point, you will begin adding the stock, and the technique for completing this dish is very important. Add just enough stock so that the grains of rice float freely in the liquid:



Allow this to come to a slow boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Also add the peppers, saffron, and salt to taste. If you're using a commercially prepared stock, go easy on the additional salt, and remember you'll get additional salt at serving time from the parmesan.

Pay close attention as the liquid begins to be absorbed by the rice - once the initial liquid is almost completely absorbed, add another 1/2 to 1 cup of stock and repeat this process, adding more liquid as needed and stirring somewhat frequently. Some people call for heating the stock prior to adding it, but I've used broth right out of the can and had equally good results.

This requires a lot of hands-on work, and will take 20-30 minutes to do correctly. However, you will notice that as you near completion, the rice will become very soft and the dish will take on a very thick, creamy texture. At this point, begin tasting small amounts of the rice and cook to your desired doneness. Some schools of thought say that risotto, like pasta, should be served al dente. I prefer mine to be a little more done - the creamier the better, especially as the weather gets cold here in Central NC. The final product is pictured here alongside some smoked beef brisket and chicken.

Quick Bites: Camembert, Bacon, and Mixed Greens

This is by no means an in-depth post, but next time you're after something quick yet tasty, this sandwich is sure to please. It began in a simpler form when I was in college, consisting of Brie, a toasted English muffin, and some green leaf lettuce. Over the years, the sandwich has evolved a bit, but remains a simple, quick fix.

I still enjoy Brie, but these days, I prefer Camembert. It falls into the category of semi-soft French cheeses and is very similar to Brie, but with a slightly different flavor. True Camembert-Normandie is made from unpasteurized milk, but the pasteurized varieties which are more widely available are quite excellent - however, they do not qualify for the "AOC" label which designates true Camembert

Start with two slices of fresh Sourdough bread, very lightly toasted. I get it to the point where the bread is a little crispy, but not quite browned. Add 3-4 thick slices of Camembert, 4 strips of bacon, and some mixed greens. That's it. The musky undertones of the creamy cheese are nicely accented by the bacon, and the crisp, slightly bitter greens add the needed contrast.

Look for more soon, including grilled lamb chops and Chez Matt's infamous risotto.

The Weber Part II: Steaks

Every once in a while, fortune smiles upon you, and you stumble into a great deal on some beautiful New York Strip steaks:



Given such an occasion, the only option is to fire up the grill and have a drink:



If you're not familiar with Booker's, I highly recommend getting your hands on a bottle and checking it out. This is definitely a bourbon for serious bourbon drinkers - its Jim Beam's single barrel, and this batch weighs in somewhere around 125 proof. That being said, the flavor is amazing. I recommend having a couple ounces over ice.

Rub the both sides of the steaks with:

• paprika
• kosher salt
• black pepper
• cayenne pepper
• garlic powder
• oregano

and let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes:



Get the grill going; as mentioned previously, I use Kingsford Charwood. If you can't find this particular brand, I know Lowe's hardware stores sell a different brand of charwood. You'll never want to use briquettes again.

Once your coals are ready and the rack is good and hot, cook the steaks about 6 minutes on each side for medium:



The charwood burns hot enough to sear the meat so the steaks come out just about perfect. I'm going to stick with my Aussie for smoking, but for grilling purposes, the Weber is a damn fine apparatus. I had my steak with a baked potato and a Booker's. Sometimes its best to keep it simple.

Breaking In the Weber and Smoking Some Chickens

First of all, many thanks go out to Chris for his amazing wedding gift, a Weber One-Touch Gold. Also to Nathan for the sweet set of BBQ tools. Seriously -- bottle opener built into the spatula? That should be a requirement.




I had a chance to break it in this weekend: grill-roasted red potatoes with hot banana peppers, marinated grilled yellow squash and zucchini, and grilled mahi-mahi (rubbed with a spicy brown sugar dry rub). The fish was for Kate and the potatoes and veggies accompanied a chicken I smoked earlier in the day.






I did the chicken using an Aussie Walkabout as a smoker:





The square shape and ample side vents are excellent for having coals and meat at opposite ends and keeping the temperature steady. I use a mix of Kingsford Charwood and hickory chunks -- bottom line, you need to use 100% wood to get the flavor right:



At around 225 - 250 degrees, a 4 pound chicken takes about 6 hours.

The dry rub was a mix of brown sugar, kosher salt, garlic and onion powders, black and cayenne peppers, ground cumin, and dried parsley. I rubbed the chickens down about an hour before smoking, and also placed sliced fatback across the top for extra moisture during cooking. During the 6 hour process, I had to light and add new coals twice, and added new hickory chunks about every 90 minutes. For the initial batch of coals, I filled the chimney; the refill batches were only about half full. I also basted every hour or so with a vinegar mop: cider vinegar, vinegar from banana peppers, and a handful of the dry rub.

For the potatoes, dice 3 large red potatoes, 3 cloves of garlic, and 2/3 cup hot banana pepper rings. Mix with olive oil, salt, black pepper, onion powder, and dried parsley. Wrap into an aluminum foil pouch and grill for around 60 minutes.

Marinate squash halves in a mix of Italian salad dressing, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and onion powders, black and crushed red peppers, and dried parsley for one hour. Grill 7-10 minutes on each side.



Rub the mahi-mahi with the dry rub about an hour before grilling. Grill 7-10 minutes on each side. I recommend using a fish basket or vegetable grid as mahi-mahi is a delicate fish and can fall through normal grill racks.



Everything turned out fabulous, and with the exception of the chicken, is relatively easy and avoids the stove.