Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Quick Bites: The Right Way to Make a Burger

I must admit that burgers have occupied a lot of my thoughts lately, due in no small part to the folks at A Hamburger Today. This blog focuses on nothing but burgers, and does an excellent job with an American classic.

I agree with many of the recurring themes of this site, specifically:
  • Burgers need to be made from freshly ground meat. Nothing that's been frozen or pre-ground in a slaughterhouse or packing plant. I've got a grinder attachment for my KitchenAid that does the job.
  • Burgers should be made from a blend of different cuts: sirloin, chuck, brisket, cheek, etc. This allows for the best flavor and proper mix of meat and fat.
  • Burgers should be served on a plain white bun, steamed or lightly toasted. The griddle I have has ridges on one side so I can toast buns while I griddle the meat. This leads into the next point...
  • Burgers should be griddled. You don't get the carmelized crust from the Maillard reaction any other way.
  • Burgers should to the classic set of toppings: lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mustard, mayo, ketchup, cheese, and sometimes bacon. No truffle-infused prosciutto shavings or micro-arugula and endive salad on the bun.
Last night, I picked up 1 pound of boneless short ribs and 2 pounds of boneless chuck strips. So far, this is my personal favorite burger mix and will be a keeper.

Cipollini Onion and Four Mushroom Risotto



Risotto is a traditional Italian dish that's picked up some popularity in recent years. Many restaurants feature a risotto, with ingredients changing on a somewhat frequent basis. Nana's of Durham features risotto as an appetizer, and its worth checking out. Last time I went the one of the key ingredients was fried leeks, which was new and interesting. At the time of this writing, they are offering a risotto with NC White Shrimp, Roasted Fennel and Local Yellow Peppers finished with Smoked Bacon. However, the chef does need to let the rice cook a little longer, to let the starchy, almost pudding-like consistency of the Arborio fully develop.

Be sure you get Arborio rice, this is key to a good risotto. Arborio is a short-grained rice, primarily grown in the Piedmont and Lombardy regions of Italy. Other types of Italian short-grained rice such as Carnaroli and Vialone Nano can also be used, but you will not get the desired effect with other types of white rice. In more traditional white rice, and longer grain rices such as Jasmine, the starch content is not high enough for the risotto "magic" to happen.

You can also substitute other onions for the Cipollini, but you will find they are not nearly as sweet and delicate. The mushroom blend is a mix of basic white mushrooms, as well as crimini, shitake, and oyster mushrooms. The grocer near me sells these three in a tray-pack blend; its worth seeking them out individually if you don't have this option. The mixture of mushrooms adds a very earthy undertone to the dish, and having all 4 types is key.

You will also need olive oil, garlic, vegetable or meat stock (at least 6 cups), salt, black and crushed red peppers, and optionally, a pinch of saffron. Risotto is also best served with heaping bowls of freshly grated parmesan cheese.



Start by roughly chopping the onions and garlic while heating the olive oil (about 3/4 of an inch) to medium in a dutch oven or large soup pot. Sautee over medium heat until the onions become soft and translucent - you do not want the onions or garlic to brown so reduce the heat as needed:



Once the onions are close to being completely translucent, add the sliced mushrooms and sautee for an additional 2 minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups of arborio rice (and a little more olive oil if the mushrooms have absorbed all of it) and sautee 1 minute more, while stirring:



At this point, you will begin adding the stock, and the technique for completing this dish is very important. Add just enough stock so that the grains of rice float freely in the liquid:



Allow this to come to a slow boil over medium heat, stirring frequently. Also add the peppers, saffron, and salt to taste. If you're using a commercially prepared stock, go easy on the additional salt, and remember you'll get additional salt at serving time from the parmesan.

Pay close attention as the liquid begins to be absorbed by the rice - once the initial liquid is almost completely absorbed, add another 1/2 to 1 cup of stock and repeat this process, adding more liquid as needed and stirring somewhat frequently. Some people call for heating the stock prior to adding it, but I've used broth right out of the can and had equally good results.

This requires a lot of hands-on work, and will take 20-30 minutes to do correctly. However, you will notice that as you near completion, the rice will become very soft and the dish will take on a very thick, creamy texture. At this point, begin tasting small amounts of the rice and cook to your desired doneness. Some schools of thought say that risotto, like pasta, should be served al dente. I prefer mine to be a little more done - the creamier the better, especially as the weather gets cold here in Central NC. The final product is pictured here alongside some smoked beef brisket and chicken.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Quick Bites: Camembert, Bacon, and Mixed Greens



This is by no means an in-depth post, but next time you're after something quick yet tasty, this sandwich is sure to please. It began in a simpler form when I was in college, consisting of Brie, a toasted English muffin, and some green leaf lettuce. Over the years, the sandwich has evolved a bit, but remains a simple, quick fix.

I still enjoy Brie, but these days, I prefer Camembert. It falls into the category of semi-soft French cheeses and is very similar to Brie, but with a slightly different flavor. True Camembert-Normandie is made from unpasteurized milk, but the pasteurized varieties which are more widely available are quite excellent - however, they do not qualify for the "AOC" label which designates true Camembert

Start with two slices of fresh Sourdough bread, very lightly toasted. I get it to the point where the bread is a little crispy, but not quite browned. Add 3-4 thick slices of Camembert, 4 strips of bacon, and some mixed greens. That's it. The musky undertones of the creamy cheese are nicely accented by the bacon, and the crisp, slightly bitter greens add the needed contrast.

Look for more soon, including grilled lamb chops and Chez Matt's infamous risotto.

Sunday, October 5, 2008

The Weber Part II: Steaks

Every once in a while, fortune smiles upon you, and you stumble into a great deal on some beautiful New York Strip steaks:



Given such an occasion, the only option is to fire up the grill and have a drink:



If you're not familiar with Booker's, I highly recommend getting your hands on a bottle and checking it out. This is definitely a bourbon for serious bourbon drinkers - its Jim Beam's single barrel, and this batch weighs in somewhere around 125 proof. That being said, the flavor is amazing. I recommend having a couple ounces over ice.

Rub the both sides of the steaks with:
  • paprika
  • kosher salt
  • black pepper
  • cayenne pepper
  • garlic powder
  • oregano
and let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes:



Get the grill going; as mentioned previously, I use Kingsford Charwood. If you can't find this particular brand, I know Lowe's hardware stores sell a different brand of charwood. You'll never want to use briquettes again.

Once your coals are ready and the rack is good and hot, cook the steaks about 6 minutes on each side for medium:



The charwood burns hot enough to sear the meat so the steaks come out just about perfect. I'm going to stick with my Aussie for smoking, but for grilling purposes, the Weber is a damn fine apparatus. I had my steak with a baked potato and a Booker's. Sometimes its best to keep it simple.